Project:  Garden Lights

Created by Barbara Franzreb Bunsey

Barbara Franzeb Bunsey began painting over 25 years ago and has taught for more than 20 years. Her designs have been featured in The Decorative Painter, Painting Magazine, Quick and Easy Painting, PaintWorks, ToleWorld, and several other magazines. Bunsey has been named to Directory of Traditional American Crafts by Early American Life Magazine, and has been commissioned by Colonial Williamsburg to paint pieces sold in the foundation’s shops. She also was honored to have ornaments she designed selected for the official White House and Library of Congress Christmas Trees and as gifts for family and friends by former President and Mrs. George W. Bush.

Bunsey’s design for Helping Artists brings the classical look of the formal topiary garden into your home on a colorful lamp. Bunsey can be reached through her Website at
DecoArt Products Required

DecoArt supplies

Americana Acrylics

  • DAO10 Cadmium Yellow
  • DAO28 Raspberry
  • DAO40 Williamsburg Blue
  • DAO43 Salem Blue
  • DAO63 Burnt Sienna
  • DAO68 Slate Grey
  • DAO82 Evergreen
  • DA101 Dioxazine Purple
  • DA102 Medium Flesh
  • DA106 Light Avocado
  • DA134 Yellow Green
  • DA137 Shading Flesh
  • DA160 Antique Maroon
  • DA162 Antique Mauve
  • DA192 Pink Chiffon
  • DA211 Wisteria
  • DA212 Deep Periwinkle
  • DA221 Traditional Burnt Umber
  • DA232 Vivid Violet
  • DA277 Spa Blue
  • DA295 Butterscotch
  • DA296 Wasabi Green

Americana Mediums

  • DAS8 Weathered Wood

Sealers / Finishes

  • DS17 Multi-Purpose Sealer
  • DS21 DuraClear Satin Varnish

Additional supplies


  • Ball jar lamp with wooden shade


  • Water container
  • Palette
  • Paper towels
  • Fine grit sandpaper
  • 1” flat brush
  • Clean cloth
  • ½” masking or painter’s tape
  • #14 shader brush
  • #16 shader brush
  • #8 shader brush
  • #0 script liner brush
  • Mop brush, optional


  • Sand surface; remove dirt.


  1. Use 1” flat brush and Multi-Purpose Sealer to coat. Let dry. Sand again if necessary.
  2. Use 1” flat brush to paint edges of shade, in about ¾” or so, with Light Avocado.
  3. Tape off each edge pressing press sides of tape down well. Basecoat over edge Light Avocado to seal. Basecoat inside tape Slate Grey.
  4. With #14 dry brush, pick up Light Avocado, take out excess on palette, then load in Yellow Green, take out excess on palette, and dry-brush center areas of Light Avocado band.
  5. Remove tape and sand edges.
  6. Using #16 shader brush, side-load in Light Avocado, blend, and apply grass at bottom of each section.
  7. With script liner, add line of Deep Periwinkle between Light Avocado and Slate Grey areas.
  8. Sideload Wisteria on #16 shader brush, blend, and add back-to-back floats in center of line for highlight; clean brush, pick up Dioxazine Purple, blend, and add back-to-back floats at corners for shading.
  9. Basecoat flower pots Burnt Sienna. Allow to dry. When dry, apply fairly thin coat of Weathered Wood and allow to dry.
  10. Basecoat pots Shading Flesh.
  11. Using dry #14 shader brush, pick up Medium Flesh, take out excess on palette, then dry-brush horizontally, a little to right of center, for highlight. Repeat, picking up Butterscotch in dirty brush and adding highlight in center of previous highlight, leaving “halo” of original color on each side.
  12. Shade both sides of pot, under lip, and inside pot with Burnt Sienna; reinforce inside pot, on left side of pot, and under rim on left with Antique Maroon.
  13. Add a bit more shading inside pot and under rim at left with Dioxazine Purple.
  14. Load #2 round brush in Traditional Burnt Umber, pressing to flatten, then load one corner into Butterscotch, blend, and add trunks for topiaries, keeping Butterscotch on right.
  15. Add foliage using dry #14 shader brush on larger areas and dry #8 shader brush on smaller areas, load into Evergreen, take out excess, and begin filling in area. Wipe brush on dry paper towel, pick up Light Avocado mostly on “toe” of brush, smash to blend, and begin tapping color on right side, moving toward left and filling about ⅔ to ¾ of area.
  16. Wipe brush on dry paper towel, pick up Wasabi Green on “toe”, and add more highlight to right side, moving about halfway across area; repeat, picking up Yellow Green, moving about ¼ across area; repeat picking up Cadmium Yellow and highlight mainly top right of each foliage area.
  17. Using either clean, dry brush or using shader brush and side-loading into Dioxazine Purple, add more shading to lower left of foliage area. (On spiral tree, I did back-to-back floats inside shadow area.)
  18. Using #2 roundbrush, basecoat pink ribbon Raspberry. Highlight with back-to-back floats in center areas, at top of knot, on tips of streamer ends, and side of one streamer with Pink Chiffon. Shade with Antique Mauve, then add Vivid Violet over that shading.
  19. Basecoat blue ribbon Salem Blue. Highlight as above with Spa Blue. Shade with Williamsburg Blue. Add very light shading in darkest areas of both ribbons with Dioxazine Purple.
  20. Using shader brush side-loaded in Vivid Violet and using lots of water in brush, add touches of color to foliage, pots, and a little on Salem Blue ribbon. Using same technique and Salem Blue and/or Spa Blue, add more color to foliage, pots, and a little on Raspberry ribbon.
  21. Dampen area to right of topiary and pot and add float of Wisteria, using largest brush (mop brush, if necessary). Using same technique, add float of Wasabi Green to left side.
  22. Seal with DuraClear Satin Varnish, allowing to dry between coats.


Click on the pattern below to view it full-size for printing.